Lilies are considered to be one of the most beautiful flowers in the world. However, the one big problem with Lilies is the pollen from their stamens which can easily be knocked off onto clothing.

TIPS TO REMOVE POLLEN FROM CLOTHING:

  • Do not brush or rub with your hands. Human skin contains oils that will help attach the pollen to the fibers.
  • Let pollen dry and remove it with a soft brush.
  • Take a piece of tape and press this onto pollen. It will adhere to the tape and can then be removed.
  • Use a vacuum cleaner to remove from clothing.
  • If some pollen stains are stubborn, hang the garment in the sun to dry. The stain and the pollen in it will dry up and can then be removed by one of the above-mentioned methods.

A simple way to prevent pollen from getting on your clothes is to remove the anthers (tips of stamens) as soon as you get the flowers home. Keep repeating this with every bud that opens or cut off the stamens. For those of you that love Lilies but do not want to deal with stains on your clothing, you can purchase pollen-free Lilies.

 


As a floral professional making that first impression count is key.  Chrysal wants to help your customers enjoy their flowers to the fullest.  Chrysal has all the solutions you need but following these tips can help as well.

The Invisible Enemy:

  • Bacteria thrive on the sugary sap that leaks from all stems.
  • They double every 20 mins and in 10 hrs. 100 bacteria cells can become more than 100 billion cells.
  • They live in dirty buckets, unclean flower preparation tables, unclean cutting tools and they invade the flower through the cut ends and quickly block the water conducting vessels to the flower head.  This causes flower wilting and a very short vase life.
  • Bacteria can be detected by rubbing your fingers around the inside of your bucket or vase- a slippery feel indicates a presence of bacteria.  Likewise if the vase or bucket water is smelly – then bacteria are actively growing.

How to manage this?

  • Clean buckets inside and out with floral cleaner like Chrysal Cleaner.  Soap and detergent will not kill bacteria.
  • Let floral buckets dry before they are stacked.
  • Clean your floral cutting tools and tables daily.

Flower foods are the key

  • Chrysal has designed flower foods that manage the water environment by keeping it clean and adjust the water pH for the best uptake of water.
  • Flower shops and Floral professionals who use Chrysal Professional 2 at the correct does will lower labor cost for cleaning vases and buckets.  They will have longer lasting flowers and will have greater customer satisfaction.  Importantly, if used correctly, profits will rise.
  • Flower shop customers who use the Chrysal flower food packets will have longer lasting flowers and are more likely to return to your flower shop more often because they are happy with their flowers.

Flower arrangement in plain water vs. flowers drinking Chrysal flower food. Day 7


Flower fanatics, unite! Regardless whether you are a retail designer, a wholesale manager, buying flowers for bouquet production, or importing blooms from Latin America, every one agrees that quality matters. Why then is there so much confusion about the handling techniques that maximize quality at every step of the chain?

Let’s take a look at several common flower handling questions and try to slay a few sacred cows in the process. A good business mantra is “under-promise and over-deliver!” Americans demand value and come back for repeat purchases when they feel your product was worth the price. When it comes to appraising the value of flowers, vase-life performance is the bottom line. That’s why proper handling practices make good business sense. Handling flowers correctly makes all the difference in vase performance, not to mention reducing shrink.

Let’s start with sacred cows pertaining to Rose handling….

Will placing rose stems in hot water help hydrate them? NO! Hot water causes more harm than good. It is too aggressive for flower stems, including dahlias, snow on the mountain, poinsettia bracts and poppies. Super hot water damages stem cells, causing stem discoloration and subsequent cell collapse. Proper use of a hydration solution like Professional #1 or Professional Gerbera pills, slow release chlorine, will give far better results. Notice the emphasis on “proper”? That means the solution is mixed according to instructions and used for the appropriate time listed on label.

I like to clean my roses before arranging. Does it matter if I strip off most the foliage? Specialized cells, called stomata, are located on the underside of the leaves. These cells pump solution up the stem into blooms. Roses need ample foliage to hydrate. To avoid droopy heads, leave as much foliage in tact as possible. Strip only those leaves that fall below the water level when hydrating blooms to keep the solution clean.

Should you remove or dull rose thorns? Removing thorns may make handling easier, but those wounds serve as perfect entryways for bacteria and air bubbles to enter stems. Use a soft stripper from Chrysal to remove thorns. Avoid metal rose strippers for two reasons; it is super easy to nick or damage the stem bark. Secondly, it’s easy to go overboard and strip off too much foliage using those vice-like strippers.

Should you remove guard petals from roses? Refrain from grooming roses unless the guard petals are blemished or have Botrytis spots. Every petal removed loosens the overall bud composition thereby accelerating the opening rate. Remember, any wound (including the area where guard petals attach to the calyx) on a flower or flower stem is a conduit for bacterial invasion. Wounding blooms also triggers the internal production of ethylene. Ethylene shortens the vase life of all flowers!

How about myths surrounding tulips and other bulb flowers?

I pierce my tulip stems then add pennies to the water. Keep my glads in the dark, pour gin in the iris buckets and strip the foliage off my lilies to maximize vase performance on bulb flowers, right?
The chemistry of bulbous flowers (including tulips) goes crazy when the flowers are cut from their bulb, corm, rhizome or tuber. You recognize the symptoms, but may not know the cause. Poor vase life; Iris start to open, but instead turn brown and shrivel. Tulips goose-neck and drop petals, anemones, ranuculas and nerines lose color vibrancy. Alstroemeria and lilies suffer premature leaf yellowing. Freesia and glads stop opening after 1 or 2 florets.

All these conditions are symptoms of the hormonal imbalance that occurs when bulbous flowers are harvested. These types of flowers don’t need much sugar in flower foods, but vase life is greatly improved when hormone chemistry is rebalanced. Chrysal bulb t-bags are the product to use for bulb flowers.

Should I remove the anthers of lilies to eliminate the possibility of pollen stains? Yes, plucking off the anthers helps avoid pollen stains, but when pollen does stain clothing or tablecloths, use tape (masking or scotch both work) to lift the pollen off material. Avoid touching or brushing pollen with hands—that sets pollen grains into the texture of the material. Some feel that removing anthers slows down maturation, but it has never been scientifically proven.


What’s up with delphinium?
I love the beautiful blue tones, but they fall apart after 2-3 days. If your flowers suffer signs of premature ageing, ethylene may be the culprit. The entire delphinium family is highly sensitive to ethylene gas and needs to be treated at farm level with STS to prevent damning effects of ethylene exposure. Another alternative is treating ethylene sensitive flowers with Ethylene Buster (1-MCP gas) during transit.

Proper flower handling starts with variety selection and continues along every link of the chain. Every time consumers are polled on how long they think flowers last, they answer 2-3 days. When you exceed that vase-life expectation, you are planting seeds for repeat business!


 

How to maximize the cool berries available for holiday designs—think holly, callicarpa (beauty berry), symphoricarpos (coral berry), rose hips, seeded eucalyptus, privet, mistletoe…

 

Holly:

  • Store really cold (33-34F) at temps higher than 35F, it starts deteriorating fast
  • Don’t spray wholly with oil-based shines—causes black berries
  • Chrysal Leaf Shine is silicon-based or water based. Works fine on holly!
  • Berries turn black and fall off when exposed to ethylene. Use Ethylene Buster in coolers for protection

Symphoricarpos and Callicarpa:

  • Treat these gems as cuts and process into Chrysal Professional #2.
  • Both products are ethylene sensitive (berries fall off). Italian research shows that treating with Ethylene Buster (1MCP) improves vase life from 5 to 9 days.

Rose Hips:

  • Store dry and cold. Studies at NC State found neither hydration or flower flood solutions resulted in significant vase life improvement when hips are treated

Eucalyptus:

  • Hold cold and dry unless you plan on extended rotation. In that case, hydrate bunches in Professional #1 or Professional #2.
  • Leaves discolor if sugar level is over 2%
  • Eucalyptus produces LOTS of ethylene when dehydrated.